We all know that Atlanta summers can be brutal, but we tend to underestimate the damaging effects our rainy winters with drastic up-and-down temperature changes can have on our gardens. Here are a few suggestions on how to prepare your garden for the coming cold weather.

Watering

We have traditionally wet winters, however, that doesn’t mean you are completely off the hook!  Good watering habits are just as important this time of year as they are in the heat of summer. 

Evergreen trees and shrubs will need special considerations during this time of year since they do not drop their leaves.  Harsh winter winds tend to dessicate the leaves of evergreens (especially those with broad leaves), so deep waterings during extended winter dry spells are necessary, especially during freezing temperatures. 

mulching

Mulch is an excellent tool for mitigating the damaging effects of winter.  It provides insulation for the roots, and it helps regulate the temperature of the soil even when air temperatures are fluctuating dramatically. A good time to lay fresh mulch is after we have a frost. Perennials need to experience a dip in temperature to fully enter dormancy.  Also, mulching too early in the fall creates ideal conditions for unwanted critters and diseases to hibernate in your garden beds over the winter - yuck!. 

There are many different varieties of mulch. Pine straw works well in woodland settings and on slopes as it tends to stay put pretty well in heavy downpours.  Pine bark mini nuggets are a good option for garden beds that are relatively flat. Wheat straw/hay are effective in vegetable gardens (especially for strawberries).

When laying mulch, focus your efforts in the open spaces of your beds and the areas around your plants’ root systems.  Be careful not to mound up mulch around the base of the plants. Too much moisture retention where the stems meet the soi can cause a sometimes terminal condition called crown-rot.  Lastly, be mindful of the depth of the mulch. Two to three inches should be sufficient for most gardens.

fertilizing

Fall is NOT the time to fertilize here in our climate, unless you use a fertilizer specifically for root growth. You don’t want to promote any new top growth on plants during our already fickle winters. Top-dressing beds with worm castings or manure is the best bet for late fall/winter.

Container plants

Remember that adage about bridges freezing before roads?  A similar phenomenon happens in the garden: plants in containers will freeze before plants in the ground (because their roots are exposed to the cold and not insulated under soil and mulch).  For those times when we get a really hard freeze, consider moving containers up against the foundation of the house or into a carport, under a porch, or into some other sheltered spot. (Don’t bring them in the house. That will shock them into dropping all their leaves!)

Pots too large to move can be wrapped in protective cloth to mitigate the worst effects of the cold.  Remember to cover the entire pot, not just the plants. Secure with twine or bricks to keep the covering from blowing away.

Make sure all your pots are raised off the ground so water can drain out thoroughly.  Water trapped between the pot and the surface it’s resting on will expand when frozen and crack the pot.

Pruning

Be patient!  Fall is actually the worst time of year to prune here in our climate, as pruning promotes new growth which will not have time to harden off before winter.  

Perennials:

For hardy perennials, it is best to wait until after the first frost to prune back the year’s old growth.  For moderately hardy/tender perennials and ornamental grasses, it is important to resist pruning until the end of winter/early spring.  The previous year’s growth will provide an extra layer of protection against the damaging effects of extreme cold, ice/snow, and excessive rain.  It can also provide a bit of winter interest in your garden and can serve as important sources of food and shelter for birds and other friendly wildlife.  Once we get our first few warm days in March you can cut the stalks and spent grasses down to make room for the fresh new stalks emerging. 

Trees and shrubs:

You may prune deciduous trees and shrubs throughout the winter.  But, do be mindful NOT to prune any shrubs that bloom in early spring or on old wood (such as mophead/lacecap hydrangeas, bridalwreath spiraea, quince, and forsythia to name a few), as winter pruning will remove the upcoming season’s flower buds.  And it’s best to take a hands-off approach to pruning anything that is covered in ice or snow.

dramatic changes in temperature

Often the most damaging problem plants face in winter is ice and/or heavy, wet snow.  Branches can break and shrubs can splay open under the weight. The best strategy is to gently brush off the snow as it’s falling, before it has a chance to stick to the plants.  If grooming your garden in the middle of a snow storm isn’t your cup of tea, stay hands-off until the ice/snow has melted. Trying to remove heavy snow or encrusted ice will cause more damage to the plant than leaving it alone. 

The best course of action ahead of an impending cold snap or ice event is to water your plants deeply.  Soil that has moisture in it will help insulate roots and regulate the soil temperature.

other preparations

The end of the growing season is an ideal time to put tidy up.  Clean and sharpen your tools to prepare for spring; scrub out any pots that don’t have permanent plantings in them; drain your hoses and/or irrigation system; and drain the fuel out of any power tools.

And most importantly, take some time (preferably in front of a cozy fire with a mug of your favorite hot beverage) to reflect on the past growing season and make plans for the upcoming spring.  Think about what you enjoyed growing, what gave you trouble, and what exciting new things you want to try next.